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Two Tassie Devils


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Wednesday, October 6, 2010

The Apple Isle’s changing face

(Record of activities on 27thSeptember, 2010 but posted on above date. Apologies to regular readers for the delay but internet access can be very difficult in some places we stay)
While once famously known as the “Apple Isle”, that tag is no longer appropriate for today’s Tasmania.  Changing markets and an increased diversity into other industries has seen to that.  But somehow the “Atlantic Salmon Isle” just doesn’t have the same “crisp” ring to it, and, in fact, sounds decidedly “fishy”. 
Aquaculture (marine farming) has for almost 20 years been the buzz word here, and whenever you are close to the mouth of any of the mighty Tasmanian river systems you are likely to find huge floating cages chocka-block with Atlantic Salmon, or other seafood delicacies. 
Tasmania’s clean mineral-enriched water is just perfect for the prolific production big healthy specimens and the world demand for Tassie-grown seafood is going through the roof. 
The pictures above were taken on 27th September, 2010 en route to our major destination for the day.      
It is along time since Tasmania had such a cold wet September.  And while everyone understands the need for rain, especially when there has been a long drought, it sure puts a damper on tourist activities. 
Faced with a forecast of yet another day of cold wind and scattered heavy rain, inside somewhere seemed the best place to be, but with plenty of room to stretch our legs. Where more suitable than the largest cave complex in Australia, the Hastings Caves, north of Southport in the fabulous Huon Valley.
Mind you, the forestry road from the Huon Highway to the caves parking area (a quite considerable distance) after a long spell of rain meant "Ranndy" really getting down and getting dirty and the 4WD option certainly aided straight line forward progress!


The walk to the caves entrance from the parking area passes through magnificent rain forest, so much of which we have experienced on this trip.

I never ceased to be captivated by it, and my eyes always stray to any stream my ears have told me is concealed somewhere close by. I feel sure in that sound there is a trout whispering, "Catch me if you can!"


A guide is on hand to take visitors on a 45 minute walk through a small portion of the total underground labyrinth ... the section  known as the Newdegate Cave, estimated to be 40 million year old. 
In our case, the guide was Jason, whose love for the caves and passion for his work was just so obvious. Can you imagine, five to seven times a day, shepherding 30 gawping tourists, constantly blazing away with flash cameras, up and down hundreds of steps along a kilometer or so of carefully laid walkways, while you keep up a witty, yet seemingly, ad lib commentary? You would HAVE to love the work with a passion, wouldn't you, especially when the temperature is a constant 9 degrees Celsius!


Jason told us that the entrance to the caves was not found by Europeans until 1917, when timber-cutters stumbled upon it.  By then, white settlers had been in the region for nigh on a century.

Over the almost-100 years since, an extensive labyrinth of caves reaching over 40 kilometers in length has gradually been explored ... only a fraction of which is accessible to anyone other than carefully-vetted permit-holding speleologists, so significant is their archaeological and paleontological importance.

I wonder if we were to go way, way, way back would we find "ole Nick" himself?

I'll bet all these people who were on the tour with us would just love to know!


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